I’ll never forget my first morning in Bariloche.
Waking up to those jagged Andean peaks piercing through the mist, the smell of fresh pastries drifting up from the chocolate shops below.
I thought I knew what to expect – beautiful lakes, maybe some hiking.
But man, I was so wrong.
This place grabbed me by the soul and didn’t let go.
Bariloche isn’t just another mountain town.
It’s this perfect collision of Swiss alpine vibes, Argentine warmth, and adventure that makes your heart pound.
Whether you’re someone who lives for adrenaline or just wants to sit by a lake with a craft beer, this place delivers.
I spent two weeks exploring every corner I could find.
Some experiences blew my mind, others felt too touristy, and a few I stumbled upon totally by accident.
So let me walk you through what actually made my trip unforgettable.
Take The Cerro Campanario Chairlift At Sunset
This was my first stop, and honestly, it set the bar impossibly high.
The chairlift ride itself is short – maybe eight minutes – but those eight minutes feel like floating through a postcard.
When you reach the top, the 360-degree view hits you like a wall.
Nahuel Huapi Lake stretching out in every direction, islands dotting the water, mountains stacked on mountains.
National Geographic called this one of the best views in the world, and I’m not arguing.
But here’s my tip: skip the midday crowds.
I went back three different times during my stay because I couldn’t get enough.
Sunset is when the magic really happens – the water turns gold, the shadows on the mountains get dramatic, and most day-trippers are already gone.
Bring a jacket though.
Even in summer, that wind at the top cuts through you.
There’s a small café up there, nothing fancy, but grabbing a hot chocolate while watching the sun drop behind the peaks?
That’s the kind of moment you remember when you’re stuck in traffic back home.
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Hit The Circuito Chico On A Motorcycle
I rented a motorcycle for this, and it was hands-down one of the best decisions I made.
The Circuito Chico is this 60-kilometer loop that hugs the coastline of Nahuel Huapi Lake.
You can do it by car or bus, sure.
But feeling the wind, leaning into those curves, stopping wherever you want without worrying about a tour schedule – that freedom is everything.
The route takes you past Playa Bonita, through Villa Tacul, and over to Bahía López.
Every turn reveals another ridiculous view.
I must’ve pulled over fifteen times just to stare at the water.
One of the highlights is Punto Panorámico – this lookout where the turquoise water is so vivid it almost looks fake.
Pro tip: Start early in the morning.
The roads are emptier, the light is softer, and you’ll have spots like Bahía López almost to yourself.
I packed some sandwiches and ended up having breakfast on a quiet beach with just the sound of water lapping against the rocks.
If motorcycles aren’t your thing, you can rent a car or even a bike.
But trust me, the motorcycle made me feel alive in a way that sitting in a car just doesn’t.
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Get Your Guide Now$15.99Explore Cerro Catedral – Even If You Don’t Ski
Most people know Cerro Catedral as South America’s biggest ski resort.
And yeah, if you’re there in winter, the skiing is phenomenal.
But I visited in summer, and I’m so glad I did.
The mountain transforms into this incredible hiking and mountain biking playground.
I took the cable car up – because why not save your legs for the good stuff – and spent the day wandering trails at different altitudes.
The views from up there are insane.
Lakes, valleys, and peaks spreading out like someone spilled a geography lesson across the landscape.
There’s this restaurant at the top, Refugio Lynch, where I had the best choripán of my life.
Something about eating grilled chorizo at 2,000 meters while staring at the Andes just hits different.
If you’re into mountain biking, there are trails ranging from chill cruises to technical descents that’ll test your nerve.
I’m not a hardcore biker, but even the intermediate trails got my adrenaline pumping.
One thing I loved: even in peak season, once you get away from the base area, the trails feel empty.
It’s just you, the mountain, and that thin Patagonian air.
Spend An Afternoon On Isla Victoria
Getting to Isla Victoria requires a boat ride from Puerto Pañuelo, but man, it’s worth every peso.
The island sits in the middle of Nahuel Huapi Lake, covered in native forest that’s been protected for decades.
When I stepped off the boat, it felt like entering another world.
Arrayán trees with their cinnamon-colored bark, bamboo groves rustling in the wind, and trails that wind through terrain that feels ancient.
Most tours combine Isla Victoria with Bosque de Arrayanes, which is cool, but I actually preferred just Victoria.
There’s something about the scale – the island is big enough that you can find quiet spots away from the tour groups.
I hiked to Playa del Toro, this secluded beach on the north side.
Nobody else was there.
I literally had this perfect crescent of sand and crystal-clear water entirely to myself for an hour.
Bring a book, bring a snack, just bring yourself.
The silence on that beach, broken only by birds and gentle waves, reset something in me.
Also, keep your eyes open for wildlife.
I spotted a few woodpeckers and even a red fox darting through the underbrush.
Dive Into Bariloche’s Craft Beer Scene
Okay, so this might sound random in an adventure-focused guide, but hear me out.
Bariloche has become Argentina’s craft beer capital, and the breweries here are legit.
After a long day hiking or biking, there’s nothing better than sitting down with a cold IPA and swapping stories with other travelers.
I hit up Manush, Berlina, and Blest – all totally different vibes.
Manush is industrial and hip, Berlina feels more intimate and local, and Blest is the OG, right on the lake with massive windows overlooking the water.
The cool part is how many breweries incorporate local ingredients.
I tried a beer made with calafate berries – this Patagonian fruit that’s sweet and tart at the same time.
It sounds weird, but it works.
Most places serve food too, and it’s way better than typical bar fare.
We’re talking gourmet burgers, trucha (trout) fresh from the lake, and killer empanadas.
I ended up going to the same brewery three nights in a row because I met this crew of Chilean backpackers and we just kept the conversation rolling.
That’s the thing about Bariloche’s beer culture – it’s social in the best way.
Everyone’s pumped from their day outside, everyone has stories, and the beer keeps flowing.
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Hike To Refugio Frey
This hike is not for everyone, but if you’ve got decent fitness and a love for alpine scenery, put this at the top of your list.
The trail to Refugio Frey is about 4-5 hours one way, depending on your pace.
It starts in the forest, then climbs up through switchbacks until you break through the treeline.
And that’s when it gets unreal.
You’re suddenly surrounded by these massive granite spires – the kind that make rock climbers lose their minds.
Laguna Toncek sits at the base, this impossibly blue glacial lake that reflects the mountains.
The refugio itself is this stone hut where climbers and hikers crash for the night.
I stayed overnight, which I highly recommend.
Watching the sunset paint those rock faces orange and pink, then waking up to the sun hitting the peaks at dawn – that’s the stuff you travel for.
The night I was there, a group of Argentine climbers shared mate and stories around a fire.
Even with my broken Spanish, the vibe was so welcoming.
Bring cash if you’re staying – they serve simple meals, but it’s all cash only.
And pack layers.
Even in summer, temperatures drop hard after the sun goes down.
Get Lost In The Chocolate Shops
I know, I know – this seems too touristy to mention.
But here’s the thing: the chocolate in Bariloche is genuinely world-class, and skipping it would be like going to Belgium and avoiding the waffles.
The city has something like 50 chocolate shops lining Avenida Mitre.
Some are massive tourist traps with prices to match, but others are family-run spots that take their craft seriously.
I became obsessed with Mamuschka – this place with a fairy-tale exterior and chocolate sculptures in the windows.
Their dark chocolate with almonds became my daily afternoon treat.
Fenoglio is another favorite.
Their ice cream is insane – I tried the calafate flavor and it tasted like Patagonia in a cone.
Rapa Nui takes a different approach with more creative flavors and contemporary packaging.
Here’s my strategy: don’t buy from the first shop you see.
Walk the whole strip, sample aggressively (they expect it), and then make your picks.
I ended up shipping a box home because I knew I’d demolish it all before my flight if I kept it with me.
Also, time your visit right and you can watch them making chocolate through the windows.
There’s something mesmerizing about seeing those massive vats of melted chocolate being stirred and poured.
Drive The Seven Lakes Route
This full-day drive is a commitment, but holy hell is it worth it.
The route runs between San Martín de los Andes and Villa La Angostura, passing seven distinct lakes along the way.
I rented a car and left Bariloche early, before the sun was fully up.
Each lake has its own personality.
Lago Espejo lives up to its name – the water is so still it perfectly mirrors the surrounding forest and sky.
Lago Correntoso is this wild blue-green color that looks unnatural.
I stopped at every mirador (viewpoint) and probably added two hours to the drive just from gawking.
The landscape shifts constantly – from dense valdivian rainforest to open valleys to snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Pack a cooler with snacks and drinks.
There are a few small towns along the way with restaurants, but half the fun is pulling over at a random beach and having a picnic.
I ended up in Villa La Angostura for lunch at this lakeside parrilla.
Grilled lamb, a glass of Malbec, and a view over Lago Nahuel Huapi – pretty solid midday break.
The drive back takes the same route, but somehow looks completely different with the afternoon light.
If you have time, spend a night in Villa La Angostura.
The town’s got this laid-back vibe and great restaurants.
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Get Your Guide Now$15.99Try Fly Fishing In The Limay River
I’d never been fly fishing before Bariloche, and honestly, I wasn’t sure I’d care about it.
But something about standing in that crystal-clear water, casting a line with the Andes behind me, just clicked.
The Limay River is legendary among fly fishers worldwide.
The trout here are massive, wild, and incredibly smart.
I hired a guide for the day – definitely worth it if you’re new to the sport.
He took me to this quiet section upstream where we were the only people around.
Teaching me to cast properly took about an hour, and I was terrible at first.
But when I finally got the rhythm and felt that first tug on the line, man, I understood the obsession.
We caught and released several rainbow trout that day.
Watching them dart back into the current after being freed felt almost spiritual.
The guide packed lunch – sandwiches, fruit, and of course, mate.
We ate sitting on the riverbank, talking about the river, the fish, and life in Patagonia.
Even if you don’t catch anything (which totally happens), just being out there is the point.
The sound of rushing water, the focus required for each cast, the solitude – it’s meditative in a way I didn’t expect.
Watch The Sunrise At Puerto Blest
Getting to Puerto Blest requires planning – it’s only accessible by boat from Puerto Pañuelo.
But if you can swing the early morning departure, do it.
I booked the first boat out, which left in the pre-dawn darkness.
As we cruised across Nahuel Huapi Lake, the sky started to shift from black to deep purple to pink.
By the time we reached Puerto Blest, the sun was just breaking over the mountains.
Puerto Blest sits at the edge of a temperate rainforest, where annual rainfall is off the charts.
Everything is green, lush, and covered in moss.
There’s a short hike to Cascada Los Cántaros, a waterfall that tumbles down in multiple stages.
The trail is easy, mostly boardwalks, and takes about 30 minutes.
Standing at the base of the waterfall, feeling the mist, surrounded by ferns and massive trees – it’s like being in Middle Earth.
Most tours then take you further to Lago Frías, which has this surreal milky-green color from glacial sediment.
You can continue to the Chilean border from here, but I was happy just absorbing the scene.
I brought my camera and went a little crazy with photos, but honestly, none of them captured the feeling.
Some places just have to be experienced.
Mountain Bike The Intendencia Trail
If you mountain bike at all, you need to ride this trail.
It starts near Colonia Suiza and runs along the lakeshore, winding through forest with constant views of the water.
The trail is intermediate – some technical sections with roots and rocks, but nothing that’ll kill you.
I rented a solid bike from a shop in town, and the guy gave me a hand-drawn map with all the best routes marked.
The Intendencia trail became my go-to morning ride.
There’s something about getting out early, before the heat kicks in, and having the trail mostly to yourself.
I’d stop at this one point where the trail opens up onto a small beach.
I’d sit there for ten minutes, catch my breath, and watch the light change on the water.
The ride back has a few punchy climbs that’ll test your legs, but nothing crazy.
Total loop took me about two hours at a casual pace, probably 90 minutes if you push it.
One morning I ran into a guy from California who’d been coming to Bariloche for years just to ride these trails.
We ended up riding together for an hour, and he showed me a few side trails that weren’t on any map.
That’s the cool thing about Bariloche – the local knowledge runs deep, and people love sharing it.
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Eat Your Way Through A Traditional Parrilla
You can’t come to Argentina and not experience a proper parrilla, and Bariloche’s got some great ones.
Parrilla is more than just a meal – it’s this whole ritual of fire, smoke, and perfectly grilled meat.
I hit up Alto el Fuego on a recommendation from my hostel owner, and it did not disappoint.
They bring you the meat on a little grill that’s still sizzling, keeping everything hot throughout the meal.
I ordered the parrillada for two (even though I was alone, because why not) and proceeded to eat my body weight in beef.
Chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage – trust me on this), entraña (skirt steak), and bife de chorizo all cooked over an open flame.
The meat here is grass-fed and tastes like beef is supposed to taste – rich, tender, with that perfect char on the outside.
Don’t skip the chimichurri.
Every parrilla has their own recipe, and tasting the variations became a mini-obsession for me.
Also, order a bottle of Malbec from Mendoza.
The pairing of Argentine beef with Malbec is almost cliché at this point, but it’s cliché for a reason.
The meal lasted three hours – eating slowly, people-watching through the windows, occasionally chatting with the waiter about where else I should explore.
That’s how dining works here.
Nobody rushes you, and meals are meant to be savored.
This forest is genuinely unlike anything I’ve seen anywhere else.
